The Lakes District: A Dramatic Entrance

The experience a person has in the Lakes depends on several factors which are wholly out of their control. The weather will always dictate the spectacular-ness of the views and the comfort of the hiker. I’m no mathematician (although my GRE prep has me thinking like one), but seeing as it rains two out of every three days on average in Northern England, it’s statistically in your favor to spend a minimum of 3 days exploring Lakeland.

When the sunexplodes through the thick mist – like it did for us as we ascended out of the Ennerdale Water valley – soggy socks and physical fatigue are forgiven and forgotten. By the time Laurel and I had climbed halfway up the stone “ladder” along Loft Beck, we were blessed with one of the most glorious views yet. The waterfalls across the valley glistened in contrast with the brilliant green velour of the folded slopes. About a hundred steps up to the peak, our view expanded further to illuminate the lakes and village we’d left 10 miles behind us. Mountaintop scenery as gorgeous as this is best honored with a moment of rest and reverence. As you can see, Laurel’s got the right idea here.

Beyond the vista point it’s all downhill through the slate mine and little ancient town of Seatoller to the night’s lodging in Borrowdale; in our case Gillercombe B&B in Stonethwaite hamlet. When they say folks are tougher up North, they are talking about women like Rachel. Photos of her adult grandson donning Ironman Tri medals decorated the dining area as she served us up English Breakfasts. She shared stories of her favorite walkabouts when she’s not tackling the hills of the Lakes. Her best recommendations are Mt Everest (14 days to & above base camp) and Peru. Her trip to New Zealand wasn’t her favorite, though. “Too flat and boring,” she reported, wrinkled nose in disapproval.

Now… when you reach the pub at the end of your day’s walk, it is best to honor your amazing body and your steely determination with pie. For example – oh, I don’t know – Chicken, ham and leek pie.